The Teen & Tween Skincare Craze: Harmless or Harmful?

Skincare routines have become a big focus for girls, some as young as 10 years old. Bombarded by social media, beauty retailers and influencers, tweens and teens are buying expensive creams, masks and other products typically marketed to older people.

“It’s a positive thing when children are motivated to pursue health and wellness, including in taking interest in their skincare,” says University Hospitals pediatric dermatologist Sonal Shah, MD. “However, for many teenagers, navigating the world of skincare products can be challenging, especially without appropriate education. This is where we start to see problems.”

What Teens and Tweens Are Buying Into

According to Dr. Shah, it’s not uncommon for teens and pre-teens to come to her office with very complicated skincare regimens, using as many as 10-20 products daily. These include high-priced products with ingredients meant for wrinkles, spots and aging skin. As a result, Dr. Shah sees adverse effects on teenage skin and when skincare goals aren’t met, teens often turn to yet more products.

Products are recommended on social media, often with paid promotions by influencers whose reviews may come with some bias. “Social media can provide a wealth of information, but it’s crucial to follow trusted sources. Many board-certified dermatologists are active on social media, providing great education and product recommendations that are evidence-based and backed by science. Those types of resources can be invaluable for someone trying to learn how to keep skin healthy,” Dr. Shah advises.

She adds that it’s important to recognize that just because someone is an influencer with many followers doesn’t mean they’re an expert on skincare.

Trending Skincare Ingredients

Skincare products promise optimal skin health and beauty with a variety of ingredients. But are these formulas appropriate for tweens & teens? “In most cases, they’re not. Many of these products can damage the skin barrier, which is not fully formed in pre-teens and early adolescents,” says Dr. Shah. “And children’s skin has robust amounts of collagen and elastin fibers, so anti-aging products aren’t necessary in younger skin.”

Popular skincare ingredients and products include:

• Retinol increases skin cell turnover, unclogs pores and promotes exfoliation. Over time retinols may help reduce the signs of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Peptides are amino acids that make up proteins needed by the skin. Peptides support the production of collagen and elastin. Collagen supports firmer, younger-looking skin, with reduced fine lines and wrinkles.
• Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan found naturally in tissue. It can bind a significant amount of water, helping to keep skin hydrated and well moisturized.
• Masks have many applications. Depending on their ingredients, they can aid in skin moisturization, improve texture, fight acne breakouts, improve the appearance of dark spots, and minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Chemical peels may help minimize the appearance of dark spots, fine lines and sun damage, or help with acne and acne scarring. The utility of a chemical peel depends on the active ingredient as well as the depth of penetration.

What Adverse Reactions Can Occur?

The age-defying and problem-correcting skincare products may not be purposefully targeted to youth, says Dr. Shah, but they still attract adolescents looking for guarantees of a future with beautiful, ageless and healthy skin.

Skincare products with these ingredients can cause irritation, itching, redness, dry and scaly skin, and may worsen acne. Stinging and burning may occur when products are applied. Anti-aging products and those with heavy fragrance or a long list of ingredients are prone to cause irritation or allergic reactions that can be difficult to treat.

The Right Care for Adolescent Skin

“Caring for the skin doesn’t need to be complicated or expensive,” says Dr. Shah. “There are very good and inexpensive products that can help tweens and teens meet their skincare goals.”

Daily Skincare: For most teenagers, a gentle cleanser used twice daily, an oil-free facial moisturizer and sunscreen on the face is sufficient.

Acne: For mild acne, over-the-counter cleansers containing salicylic acid or an over-the-counter topical retinoid (used in moderation to minimize irritation) can help. Because acne can leave dark marks, sun protection is important to minimize hyperpigmentation. For more moderate acne, see a board-certified dermatologist for a personalized acne regimen.

Dry Skin: For patients who need more moisture, lotions containing hyaluronic acid may be of benefit.

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Our dermatologists treat a wide range of skin conditions and diseases and provide compassionate, individualized care for both adults and children. Learn more.